FOGATSA Makes 2 large round loaves In Corfu the Venetian influence is echoed in the island’s Easter bread, which is called fogatsa. Unlike the braided tsoureki eaten everywhere else in Greece, here the Eastern spices mahlepi and mastic are nowhere to be found. Instead, fogatsa is a dense, high, round loaf, with a cross slashed into its center and flavored with […]
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Mullet Stew from Lefkada – STRADIA
STRADIA Makes 4 to 6 servings This is an “urban” summer dish in Lefkada, savored in its capital. It calls for the grey mullet, which spawn at the end of summer. The female, called bafa, is swollen with eggs, and the male is at the height of his sperm production—details, granted, that are difficult to appreciate out of context. The […]
Garlicky Fish Stew from Corfu
BIANCO Makes 4 to 6 servings Another Corfiote fish recipe with an Italian-sounding name. Bianco is pungent with garlic and is called “white” because it is made without tomatoes. Ingredients: 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 medium onions, halved and thinly sliced 8 to 10 garlic cloves, to taste, chopped 6 to 8 […]
Peppery Fish and Leek – Casserole from Corfu
TO BOURTHETO TIS KERKYRAS Makes 6 servings The name comes from the Italian brodeto, for “broth,” a legacy of Corfu’s Venetian past. A similar dish, at least in name, is the bourieto of the northern Peloponnesos, where it refers to a fish stew redolen with onions but not colored with paprika or tomato paste. On Corfu, bourtheto is one […]
Ithacan Octopus Ragout with Tomatoes and Celery
HTAPOTHI CAPAMA TIS ITHAKIS Makes 4 servings The word capama comes from the Turkish for “to cover.” It is a name given to many different kinds of stew all around Greece. Sometimes it refers to beef or chicken dishes cooked with tomatoes and cinnamon, other times to simple ragouts. This capama includes celery. What is unusual about it is that […]
Garlic Sauce with Octopus Broth from Ithaca
SKORDALIA APO HTAPOTHOZOUMO Makes 4 to 6 meze servings This garlic dip is served just as aliatha, ayiatha, and others are—as an accompaniment to boiled greens, fried vegetables or fish, plain on bread, or as a side with Ithacan Fried Octopus . Four 1-inch-thick slices stale rustic bread Pan juices from cooking 2 small or 1 large octopus. Igredients: 4 to […]
Fried Octopus from Ithaca
TIGANITO HTAPOTHAKI APO TIN ITHAKI Makes 8 to 10 meze servings Octopus is the Lenten fare par excellence in Ithaca. There is plenty of it, it is rich and filling despite its associations with the fast, and it is cooked in several unusual ways. The following recipes were given to me by Mihalis Maghoulas, an Ithacan native who tinkers in […]
Stuffed Little Meatballs from Corfu
Stuffed Little Meatballs POLPETES APO TIN KERKYRA Makes about 24 meatballs What the rest of Greece knows as keftedes or by the diminutive, keftedakia, Seven Islanders call polpetes, delicate little meatballs. In the Ionian area these days they are apt to be the mint-doused rendition common throughout all of Greece. This particular recipe, borrowed from Ninetta Laskari’s excellent book on Corfu, […]
Stuffed Veal Cooked in Aromatic Tomato Sauce
SKARTSOTSETTA Here’s a dish that some claim was the invention of Zakynthian and Corfiote taverna owners, but others, more wisely, point to Venice as the source of its provenance. (Skartsotsetta—at least etymologically— probably derives from the Italian scartocetti for “packets” because of the way the thinly sliced veal isstuffed, rolled, and braised.) Regardless of its origins, the dish has evolved to […]
Pan-Fried Veal with a Tangy Vinegar Sauce from Corfu
KERKYREIKO SOFRITO Sofrito gets its name from the Italian fritto, or “fried.” The dish is traditionally made with veal, but beef can be substituted. Makes 4 to 6 servings Ingredients: 1/3 cup all-purpose flour Freshly ground black pepper to taste Dash of cayenne pepper 2 pounds boneless veal, preferably top round, cut into 6 slices 6 tablespoons […]